Congratulations on taking the first steps of planning your Tour du Mont Blanc hike! The TMB is definitely one of Europe's most amazing hikes and the popularity is growing year by year but this means for you is that you need to plan ahead and get your bookings in order before you hit the trail, I've decided to make a guide for those of you that would like to stay in a hotel every single night on the trail the benefit of this is that you are guaranteed a shower that you can eat breakfast everyday before hitting the trail. You can even have your luggage transported as transport companies can pick-up and drop-off your luggage at your desired hotels.
I'm going to describe some accommodation options stage by stage. Take this plan as a draft. I encourage you to look up the places yourself and determine if they offer you. There are many different options in each city to get a full overview. Use our Planner tool to get an overview of all the different options. Here's a quick overview before we dive into the details:
- Night before (Chamonix): Hotel Le Chamonix or ibis Styles Les Houches Chamonix
- Stage 1 (Les Contamines): Chalet-hôtel Gai Soleil
- Stage 2 (Les Chapieux): Auberge Refuge de la Nova
- Stage 3 (Refugio Elisabetta): Refugio Elisabetta
- Stage 4 (Courmayeur): Maison Laurent
- Stage 5 (Refugio Bonatti): Refugio Bonatti
- Stage 6 (La Fouly): Hôtel Edelweiss
- Stage 7 (Champex-Lac): Hôtel du Glacier
- Stage 8 (Col de la Forclaz): Hôtel du Col de la Forclaz
- Stage 9 (Trient): Auberge La Boerne
- Stage 10 (La Flégère): Refuge de la Flégère
- Celebration (Chamonix): Hôtel Les Aiglons Chamonix
Let's take each stage step by step!
First night before hitting the trail
The official TMB starting point is in Les Houches where you will find the TMB gate and info board perfect for some hitting the trail photos most people arrive to either Les Houches or Chamonix to spend the first night before hitting the trail I've tried both and there are some pros and cons of each.
Staying in Chamonix it's a great option since you are close to plenty of restaurants and shops (with a chance to buy any last minute gear you are missing) and you really get a chance to feel the lively vibe of the French mountain town that is on everybody's lips every time I stay in Chamonix I feel like I get an injection of outdoor and wildlife energy which makes me super excited to hit the trail the next day. Since Chamonix is a little off from the official starting point in Les Houches you will need to either take the tram grab the bus or go by taxi - it's a short ride of only 20 minutes so it shouldn't be a big deal. If you decide to stay in Chamonix I'd say Hotel Le Chamonix is a pretty great option - its cozy, placed in the middle of town and offers some epic views of the moutain range (giving you a little sneak peak into what lies ahead on the trail).
Staying in Les Houches also has its own benefits since it houses the official starting point of the TMB. On your first day, you're not gonna waste any time and you can walk directly to the trailhead. The city is in its own regard cozy and has good options in terms of supermarkets for resupply and excellent restaurants. If you decide to stay in Les Houches I've found ibis Styles Les Houches Chamonix to be fairly priced, pretty comfortable and have all the basics that you want. On top of this it's a common first night accommodation for many hikers of the trail which means that you can make a few friends even before starting your hike.
Stage 1: Les Houches - Les Contamines-Montjoie
Your first day on the trail is a proper introduction: about 17-18 km and roughly 1,000 m of climbing out of Les Houches, through forest and open pasture, before you drop into the Contamines valley. Midway you'll pass Col de Voza which features a small train, a few cafés and some quite spectacular views. On paper it looks manageable. In practice the steady uphill adds up - this is your first day on trail, so you'll need a little more time to get into hiking mode.
You finish in small city of Les Contamines-Montjoie, which is one of the nicer town stops on the French section. There is a supermarket for resupply, plenty of restaurants, and a relaxed village feel after a big day. Book ahead in peak season - this is a popular night for TMB hikers. A popular spot for the night is the Camping du Pontet that offers both tent pitching as well as staying in huts.
However, I'd recommend Chalet-hôtel Gai Soleil as a comfortable base. It is a family-run chalet hotel with the kind of warm, uncomplicated service you want on night one: a proper shower, dinner nearby, and an easy start the next morning. It is a common pick on this stage, so you will likely share the dining room with other hikers. Keep in mind; the mingling with other hikers is a big part of the TMB experience.
Stage 2: Les Contamines-Montjoie - Les Chapieux
Stage 2 is a personal favourite of mine. Not only do you get a nice start from Contamines, but you are in for both a physically challenging and rewarding day. Expect around 18 km and about 1,400 m of elevation gain, with the climb over Col du Bonhomme and Col de la Croix du Bonhomme as the main event. The views are excellent so have your camera ready for some photo-tunities. Start early and carry enough water for the long stretch between Contamines and Chapieux.
Les Chapieux is small - really just a handful of buildings in a remote valley. There is no real high street of hotels to choose from. For most hikers doing a hotel-style itinerary, Auberge Refuge de la Nova is the practical option: simple rooms, refuge-style meals, and a trail buzz in the evening as everyone trades notes on the climb. It is not a spa hotel, and that is fine. You are here to sleep, eat, and get back on the trail. Book early - Chapieux has limited beds and they fill fast in July and August.
Stage 3: Les Chapieux - Refugio Elisabetta (or Lac Combal)
On this stage you will be crossing into Italy - coffee, pizza and pasta right around the corner. You'll not be disappointed! This is also a stage where the scenery starts to feel big. About 14 km and roughly 1,100 m of gain takes you up to Col de la Seigne (2,516 m) and across into Italy, with Mont Blanc and the glaciers right in front of you. It is one of the most memorable days on the whole circuit.
Be honest with yourself about the sleep situation here: there is no town at the end of the stage. Your choices are mountain refuges. Refugio Elisabetta sits above Lac Combal in a spectacular spot under the massif - and the food is worth the climb (order the ravioli al burro if it is on the menu). Rifugio Lac Combal is a nearby alternative if Elisabetta is full.
Both are refuges, not hotels. You get a bunk, a shared dinner, and an early breakfast - but you trade town comforts for one of the best locations on the trail. Reserve as far ahead as you can; these beds are among the most sought-after on the TMB. Note: If you don't manage to get a booking, consider either hiking all the way to Courmayeuer (long day) or get on the paved road right after Lac Combal and grab the bus into Val Veny where you'll find plenty of accommodation options.
Stage 4: Lac Combal - Courmayeur
After the high mountain nights, Courmayeur feels like a reward. This stage is mostly downhill: about 16 km with roughly 700 m of climbing and a long drop of around 1,650 m into Val Veny and down to town. This section is quite steep and can be taxing on the knees. Take it easy and mind your step - pasta, espresso, and a proper bed are waiting.
Courmayeur is one of the best town stops on the whole TMB. There are supermarkets, gear shops, gelaterias, and restaurants on every corner. Many hikers treat it as a rest day town, and it is easy to see why. Book ahead in peak season; this is a popular place to pause. I'd recommend a full rest day if you are able to fit that in your schedule.
I'd recommend Maison Laurent as a comfortable base in the centre of town. It is a small guesthouse with a personal feel - the kind of place where you get a good night's sleep and a straightforward start the next morning. Say yes to dinner in town while you are here; this is where the Italian food stretch really kicks in.
Stage 5: Courmayeur - Refugio Bonatti
Do not let the distance fool you. At around 12 km this is a shorter stage on paper, but you are climbing roughly 1,400 m up Val Ferret to one of the most spectacular refuges on the trail. The views of the Grandes Jorasses from Refugio Bonatti are the kind that make you stop for a while.
This is another refuge night, not a hotel night. You get a bunk, a set dinner, and breakfast - and a location that most hikers remember for the rest of the trip. Refugio Bonatti is popular for a reason, so reserve early. If it is full, check the planner for alternatives in the valley, but try to hold out for this one if you can. On several trips I've been lucky enough to get a bed due to no-shows in the afternoon (don't count on this, but worth a try).
Pack layers for the evening. Even in summer it cools off quickly at this altitude, and you will want to be outside when the light hits the peaks.
Stage 6: Refugio Bonatti - La Fouly
You leave Italy behind on this stage and cross into Switzerland over Grand Col Ferret (2,537 m). Expect a full day: about 19-20 km with around 1,300 m of gain and 1,700 m of loss. The col itself is a highlight - wide alpine views and that satisfying feeling of crossing a serious pass.
You finish in La Fouly, a quiet Swiss village that feels a world away from Courmayeur's packed streets. Accommodation is more limited than in the big towns, but that is part of the charm. Prices step up on the Swiss side, so budget accordingly. I'd recommend Hôtel Edelweiss as a solid hotel pick for the night. It is a classic alpine stay - comfortable rooms, reliable breakfast, and an easy walk from the trail. Book ahead, especially if you are hiking in August when the village fills with TMB hikers coming from both directions.
Stage 7: La Fouly - Champex-Lac
You stay in Switzerland for this stage, hiking through alpine pasture and forest on the way to Champex-Lac. It's a stretch of 15 km with roughly 1,000 m of climbing and a similar amount of descent. It is a classic Swiss TMB day - green valleys, cowbells, and lake views at the end (not to mention quite a few local cheeses if you are into that).
Champex-Lac is one of the prettiest villages on the trail. The lake sits right in the middle of town, and there are a few restaurants and a small shop for resupply. It is a popular spot to slow down for an afternoon walk around the water. In the opposite side of the lake there is a public beach/park which is perfect for hanging out and jumping in the water.
I'd recommend Hôtel du Glacier as a comfortable pick in Champex. It is a traditional alpine hotel in a great location - close to the lake and the trail, with the kind of reliable Swiss hospitality you want at this point in the trip. Raclette for dinner is never a bad idea here.
Stage 8: Champex-Lac - Col de la Forclaz
This stage takes you up and over the shoulder of the Mont Blanc massif toward Col de la Forclaz. About 14 km and roughly 1,000 m of gain - a solid day, but without the brutal distance of some earlier stages. The views back toward the Swiss valleys and across to France open up as you climb.
You finish at the col itself, where Hôtel du Col de la Forclaz sits in one of the most scenic locations on the whole circuit. You are literally on the pass, with panoramas in every direction. On a clear evening, step outside after dinner and take it in - this is what you hiked all those days for. Rooms are limited up here, so book as early as you can. Weather can turn quickly at this altitude, so pack a warm layer even in summer.
Stage 9: Col de la Forclaz - Trient
A stage of ups and downs: about 14 km with around 1,300 m of gain and 1,400 m of loss as you drop into the Trient valley. You cross Col de Balme (2,191 m) on the way - a satisfying pass with views straight into the Chamonix valley. You are getting close to the finish now, and it starts to feel real.
Trient is a tiny hamlet with a handful of accommodation options. For a hotel-style night, Auberge La Boerne is the main pick - simple, friendly, and well used to TMB hikers. If it is full, check the Planner for other options in the village; there are a few, but not many. This is a quiet night. Enjoy it - tomorrow is a short stage up to La Flégère, and the finish is within reach.
Stage 10: Trient - La Flégère
A short stage on paper, but not an easy one: about 7 km with roughly 1,000 m of climbing up to La Flégère above the Chamonix valley. Do not underestimate it because of the distance - it is steep in places, and your legs will feel everything you have done so far.
La Flégère is a stunning spot with direct views across to Mont Blanc and the Aiguilles. Most hikers stay at Refuge de la Flégère before the final descent the next morning. Book ahead - beds go quickly in August.
If you have energy left, soak up the view. The hardest climbing on the trail is behind you.
Stage 11: La Flégère - Les Houches
This is the last stage - and a big one. About 17 km with roughly 1,300 m of climbing and a long descent of around 2,200 m down to Les Houches. You pass above the Chamonix valley with views most hikers never forget, then drop through forest and pasture back to where you started.
You finish at the TMB gate in Les Houches, where the loop officially closes. Take the photo - you have earned it. Many hikers head straight to Chamonix by bus or tram for a celebration dinner. I'd recommend you to do the same!
Celebration in Chamonix
Your legs will be tired, your feet might be sore, and the last thing you should do is rush straight to a train or airport. I've done this once and I still regret it to this day. Stay around and enjoy your achievement.
Hôtel Les Aiglons Chamonix is a great pick for this night. It sits in the heart of town, close to restaurants and shops, with proper beds and the kind of comfort your body is asking for after 11 days on the trail. It has a great pool and sauna for you to recover your sore body.
Top 3 tips for staying along the TMB
- Book early - especially refuges and small villages like Chapieux, Trient, and La Flégère. Popular beds fill months ahead in July and August.
- Be realistic about hotel vs refuge nights. Towns like Courmayeur and Champex give you proper hotels; stages like Elisabetta, Bonatti, and Flégère do not. Plan for both.
- Build in recovery where you can. A rest day in Courmayeur and a celebration night in Chamonix at the end will make the whole trip feel less like a grind and more like the adventure it is.
